Monday, September 19, 2011

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week: New York SS 2012 - Menswear Round-Up Part 1 of 2

It's finally done! After 57 shows and hundreds of pictures later, the round-up is here. I really wish I can use most of my pictures but alas I am no photographer, yet. This would have been done sooner for not for my mini vacation right after my trip from NYFW. It's Monday and I go back to work today as well. Sorry about the lack of post on Saturday for by the time I got back from Las Vegas I pretty much crashed and slept for 9 hours straight. I know, I couldn't believe it either.

I liked the vintage militaristic nature of the collection but it doesn't feel vintage at all but rather futuristic. From the designer who worked under Donatella, this collection is anything but Versace and it's a good thing.

Always a favorite of mine season after season. The gray coat with the yellow bag look I adore.  Azzuolo's drop crotch cut offs were interesting but not a big fan though. I mean I'm almost 6' but unless you're modelesque I doubt it will look good with a 5'6" stature.

Great pieces, the leather arm band I love. The designer's aesthetic came from the 80's Manchester, England. The two tone blazers, again, can be seen here, and it wont be the last either. It was a pleasant show.

I love that the whole southern dapper is toned down a bit this collection. Nothing wrong with it but every season the collection's presentation get better. Easy pieces where the city meets the country. 

Interesting show, this is not one of the big shows but the collection was great and well made. Nothing cutting edge but classic cuts mixed with asymmetrical cuts on jackets and shirt jackets.

Another street show from Andrew, this time with better weather. The hood/scarf would be great in SF with its bipolar weather. I love the sweatpants which I tend to shy away but they look great. Nothing over the top this time but the collection looks street friendly.

Great summer basics that range in colors from pastels to deeper hues. Little details that shows off Campos' South American heritage. I love how he used color blocking that's not necessarily on your face color explosion

Concept Korea's presentation showcase Juyoung Lee's Resurrection line. the half draped pant was a little reminiscent from another Korean fashion house that I love Kai-Aakmann.  The details on Lee's  designs is amazing. Neoprene jacket anyone? Print blocking is a great touch but as a collection I was a little confused. Especially the skort black number.

I really like this collection. I think for my love of street wear and loud colors. But of course the mulit-colored jacket explosion extravaganza is only to be worn at a right event or hey if you want to be seen you wont go wrong with a Ben Copperwheat jacket.

3-D prints on pieces, gimmick or not it was such a great show.  I love that some of the pieces were unisex. Custo's loud prints didn't overwhelm the design they worked together. But I couldn't help but snicker when Andrej and Leebo came out. Leebo looked like a midget right next to Andrej on heels.

Is it just me or the Diesel B&G this season had a different aesthetic than the past collections. But either way it is still shiny.

DKNY man goes to wall street. The pieces were easy and clean like as expected from DKNY. Always great suiting and thanks to Prada the brogues/leather shoes with thick soles are EVERWHERE! I also love that some of the suits and jackets have secret pockets especially made for iPhone owners.

I love the aesthetic of this collection. I don't think I would be able to pull the looks but the frayed/unfinished look on certain pieces were great with a slight "I'm homeless but I'm chic" look to them. Especially the plaid trains on some of the pieces, Very interesting indeed.

Combining blocks and the prints that is reminiscent of Cox's childhood neighborhood in South London. Realistically, Simple cuts but pretty much an amazing collection.

OMG color explosion! The presentation was pretty much reminiscent of a 70's Hawaii vacation. cutesy printed shorts of turtles and hipos, a red camo print and pastel colored shorts paired with blazer jackets, yes please. Great summer staples.

Compared to its brother collection, Gant Rugger was more refined and a less colorful but had a great summer pairings.

Without a head designer the collection well fell into the Gap. A very uninspired collection. Summer basics but I have seen every piece before.

Another very colorful collection. orange and turquoise pieces took center stage but the more subdued nautical pieces were great as well. I think it is safe to say that the collection was very color driven.

This was such a very easy going presentation that you'll think the models are just guests. The pieces were inspired but of course like ANY dual collection the menswear took a back seat.

Another collection that draws its inspiration from heritage. Great pieces with a slight tweaking of classics.

Shock specialist, Jeremy Scott presented a well thought provoking collection. Wearable? probably not besides the cactus sweater that is.

Great jackets on this presentation. Since the prints was such a big part of the collection subtle details on pieces were great.

Having a new head designer was very evident for this is not the Lacoste show I've known and maybe expected. It was refreshing that it wasn't just a very color driven collection but actually had design. The jacket with the gold cuff? LOVE.

For the stylist's first collection, futuristic was on the cards. The leather jacket was amazing piece. I also like the sleeveless trench. Face shields with the brim hats. Genius!

Circles and stripes. Also featured the Libertine signature boxy blazers paired with shorts and tapered pants. It is interesting that the last collection was well more colorful. But the b&w aesthetic work well with the screen prints and the marimekko-esque flowers.

I think eventhough the inspiration for the collection was suburbia among other things I didn't quite see it . to be honest. But I do love the collection though. The pieces especially the prints were inspired.

Remember him from Project Runway? Well me neither but all I remember was his weird english accent so much like Olivier this season. But anyway the man loves shiny things from the blazer jackets and rolled up pants reminiscent of his inspiration a wildlife photographer. the suit with the brimmed hat was reminiscent of what I picture Indiana Jones.

Alright see you tomorrow for the second half.

In this Round-up: NewYork Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012
Alexandre Plokhov. Antonio Azzuolo. Bespoken. Billy Reid. Blanc de Chine. Buckler. Carlos Campos. Concept Korea. Copperwheat. Custo Barcelona. Diesel Black & Gold. DKNY. Dominic Louis. Duckie Brown. Gant by Michael Bastian. Gant Rugger. Gap. General Idea. Hyden Yoo. J.Crew. Jeremy Scott. Katya Leonovich. Lacoste. Leo Valdez. Libertine. Loden Dager. Malan Breton.