Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Pet Peeves - Jon Kortajarena by Juan Martin

Everybody in the fashion world I would always consider cut-throat. For the fact that the fashion world itself is such a small world, Elitism rans rampant.

Name dropping for the sake of name dropping would just well, for the lack of a nicer way to put it, annoying. On the recent event, while on a conversation with another guests that night. She had told me that the facilitator almost didn't let somebody in because well that person was not following the strict all-white attire. She had told me that person then told the facilitator the brand of their pants. WOW.

First, if you're going to drop names like that. Make sure that those pants would be part of the current collection and not some thrifted piece. No, nothing wrong with a thrifted/vintage piece. Actually Kudos to you finding those second hand gems. It was the context that made me kind of shake my head for the tackiness of that person. 

I was wearing Givenchy pieces that night that realistically were not available to the general public yet because they were from the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. But I was not name dropping to anybody that praised me for my outfit. If you knew what and from whose collection I was wearing, I tip my hat to you. If not that would be fine as well. 

At the end of the day, if we were in New York. You don't follow the rules? You go home. End of story.

Well Happy Hump day, my fashionistos and fashionistas!

In today's post, we have a cover story editorial piece that appeared on ODDA's  third issue. Top male model, Jon Kortajarena was photographed by Juan Martin for this project. The duo Juanjo Manez and Paloma Alvarez styled Jon K with flowy pieces along with a cute, cuddly baby tiger.

Monday, January 28, 2013

Runway Monday: Ring of Fire - Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013 -14 review

What a weekend! From the usual hang out with a few great people to the extraordinary like attending the Snow: A White Fashion Event. Such a great show. First and foremost, I would like to thank Cana Klebanoff and Joseph Domingo for inviting me to see the show for the second time. I also would like to thank the guilty parties for making my outfit a possibility. Ti amo, Luisa Via Roma! I guess I should really thank my credit card being able to afford the Givenchy pieces. Coz' they're not cheap! Such a pleasure to sit next to probably one of the most interesting and awe-inspiring person I've sat next to in my runway-watching career, Daphne Evans of the Heaven's Door Cancer Foundation.

BUT I should stop there. I'm not doing my Snow review just yet.  I'm actually starting my Fall/Winter 2013-14 review with no other than, Riccardo Tisci's collection for Givenchy. There is no surprise that I love it and no not because I'm obsessed with Givenchy . . . which I am. But to be fair I'm not in love with every collection that Tisci produces. Exhibit A: Fall/Winter 2013 collection, not so much. In this collection, we are delighted by a collection void of color. Tisci opted for a literally dark collection using blacks and whites and some grays as his color story. Hardware plays a big role this season. Jackets and vests with jarring zippers and strings and how about those shoes with the metal plates. When I saw it, It reminds me of the YSL's from a year ago. Gone were the soft and yet eerie Madonna images that I love. Gone are the skirts/kilts and flowy organza and chiffon long shirts of previous collections only be replaced by puffers tied around  the waist and the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe's kaleidoscope of risque images are on some of the pieces. As always the collection features a great balance of show pieces and amazing tailored pieces.  Leather plays a big role with the outerwear pieces.  I absolutely love those handsome leather duffel coats. I live, LIVE for that sheer blouson. One thing I don't like really are those leather short shorts. Never, EVER will I wear one of those unless it's a trunk swimwear. They're not. Overall, the collection is dramatic and intense. The presentation is on point and the soundtrack is just wonderful. Another job well done from Tisci. 

The candles, the atmosphere and the moment that Simone Nobili walk pass, it's over. I'm slain.  If Givenchy is a religion, then Tisci is my God.

Friday, January 25, 2013

Floating - Sebastian Sauve by Nicolas Valois

It has been another busy week at work and I'm glad it's finally Friday. We made it! But I planned a busy weekend for me. Not so much of "work" but I have a few social events to attend to and of course, The Snow: A White Fashion Event tomorrow evening. I just really hope it wont rain. White, new things and the rain does not mix well. Especially The silk chiffon train? No Bueno. I'm excited to say the least. What are your plans for the weekend? I have yet to plan next month's schedule, meaning NYFW meaning UGH! CRAZINESS! At any rate, I hope everybody will have a great weekend. See you on Monday for my first fall/winter 2013-14 review.

Today we have blonde bombshell Sebastian Sauve as he became the face of Brazilian designer, Icarius De Menzes' beautiful silk collection. The images was captured by Nicolas Valois. 

One word to describe the lookbook, Stunning. I love the floating effect with the light fabric, just beautiful. I thought the casting was perfect. 

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Living Life Through A Song - Sean O'Pry by Robbie Fimmano

I believe that I have said this before, I feel like I'm living in a Katy Perry's song or album rather. I mean I know it can be worse but I just love that I cycle songs while doing some work last night and BOOM. A tag on my sentimental chords.  If you're wondering which song I'm talking about, Last Friday Night it's Thinking Of You. I had to call ES right away. There are nights when I feel like a call or a Skype session are just not enough.

In today's editorial post, we have top model Sean O'Pry as he appears in monochromatic looks for the February issue of Details. Robbie Fimmano photographs Sean as Vanessa Chow styled him in pieces by Dior Homme, Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger, and Dries Van Notten.

I'm all about standing out and I actually love the more subdued colors more often than not fashion people and PR people are known showing up in all black outfit. But going for an all-bright color? Hmm sure you'll stand out . . . like a sore thumb. 

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Winter Is Coming - Snow: A White Fashion Event - The Outfit

First and foremost, I have to say that I absolutely adore the fall/winter 2013-14 collection of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy.  Alright now that is out of my system, on with the post.

It will exactly be a week from today that Snow: A white fashion event will take place in SOMA, San Francisco. My second year for getting invited for the event. I'm especially looking forward to see the collection of my favorite Menswear designer from last year, Cana Klebanoff. If you remember, I love his way of playing with shapes in his pieces. I'm also interested to see what the tailored suitings of the Artful Gentleman have in store for us. Of course, Joseph Domingo's creations will surely close the show with a bang. Cari Borja, Charmosa and Julie Schindler rounds up the designer list showing that night.

Since I went for the Gatsby inspired Maison Kitsune collection last year and It would be great to go on a different route this year. Of course, incorporating Riccardo Tisci's vision. It is no secret that Givenchy is definitely one of my favorite high fashion houses of all time. If I have not made that clear, re-read the first sentence of this post alone. The Spring/Summer 2013 collection probably would be one of my favorite collections that Tisci had put out ever since taking the Helm of the menswear division of the design house back in 2008. For some reason I have strange affinity to any religious influenced collections, thanks to attending a private Catholic school almost all my life, especially with Tisci's precision and vision.

So it's no secret that my inspiration and pieces would be from the ethereal and yet dark Givenchy Spring/Summer 2013 collection. I could have taken a specific look in the collection but a few looks gave me some great inspirations. I would have bought the sleeveless organza Madonna top but I don't think it wil be warm enough to wear one on the 26th. I also need to think about wearability. I love statement pieces but I also want to buy expensive pieces that I could wear in a regular basis and not just during fashion week. Practicality wins.

The inspiration looks:

The pieces I'm wearing:
  • Horned cap by KTZ (Kokontozai)
  • Givenchy Madonna print oversized t-shirt
  • Givenchy cotton poplin and silk chiffon long shirt (white variant)
  • Zara stretch white jeans
  • Silk light jacket
  • Reebok studded Dibello (limited edition white variant)

Here's a promotion video of the event by Warren Difranco. I think the video below requires you to actually watch it on Youtube.

Tickets are, again, available **HERE**

Have a great weekend my fashionistos and fashionistas. I'll be back on Monday with my Milan menswear fashion week highlight and followed by my Paris menswear fashion week highlight.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

London Collections: Men Highlights

This is going to be a straight forward post since it's been on my to be posted asap pile for days now. I apologize. I've been busy with work load and stay tuned with my highlights for the Milan shows and Paris after that.

So here are the collections that made an impression on me . . . for good reasons or not.

Day 1

Mr. Start: the collection, looked luxe and pristine. Great tailoring. Great pieces but again, nothing to write home about.

Meadham Kirchoff's collection made me cringe a little bit. The somewhat luxe collection but not quite then surrounded by trash bags. Great, not so much. Especially those sandals and sports socks.

Hackett London once again showcased the quintessential English style tailoring. Beautiful and poignant but somewhat dated. I love the pop of colors here and there. For some reason the aquamarine and pumpkin pieces caught my attention.

The quite minimalist collection with a simple but great color story was quite refreshing. Kudos to Richard Nicoll and his team. I thought that the gradual changes throughout the presentation was genius.  The all gray pieces were by far my favorites.

A La Disposition's quirky collection featured victorian pieces meets the future . . . so steampunk? Not quite. There were some really thought provoking pieces in the collection. But I hated the shoes!

Lee Roach's collection featured a great minimalist designs. I actually loved this collection, was it because it reminds me of a certain designer? Perhaps but the offerings were great and the strap detail on almost every jacket/top piece was quite nice.

Another "British and proud" brand, Lou Dalton showcased great tailoring and heritage. I meant when you looked at the collection you can tell where the inspiration came from.

TopMan's monochromatic designs were great. I'm absolutely in love with that look that openend the show. Everything looked polished and luxe and perfect for a ski trip. I also loved the short maroon puffer jacket. There were quite a few in this collection that I really liked. Another job well done.


Rake's offering for the Fall/Winter 2013-14  consisted of great tailored pieces but nothing to really write home about.  How about those leather turtle neck things? Interesting.

Sibling's fun, tongue-in-cheek collection was cute. I mean I've always wanted an oversized fluffly knitt hat and gloves with a matching "Please Kill Me" sweater. The oversized proportions of the pieces were clearly meant to be fun . . . doesn't it. I just love the juxtaposition of the hard bodied models with the fluff.

James Long's collection of earth toned pieces was interesting. Usually I would gravitate to these since I love a more toned down pieces to my wardrobe. But I found this very muddled. The combination of different fabrics was masterful but I found the collection very sad. Not because it sucks or anything but the emotion that I got while watching the show was of that.

Christopher Kane's collection featured animal and old school monsters. Interesting. I have mixed feelings with this collection but I'll let it sit around for a while because I usually like his collections.

The utilitarian collection of Oliver Spencer consisted of great fall colors and horizontal lines. It does remind me of a current collection I've seen. (can you guess who?). Regardless the collection was handsome and very wearable indeed.

The Alexander McQueen show was great. I found it interesting that it moved from its Milan showing to where the deceased genius hailed from. Sure the collection was a lot less conceptual than what I'm accustomed from McQueen (since changed after his death) but the gangster/edwardian aesthetic for this cycle's offering was interesting.  It might have lost some form of edge but I thought the collection was still relevant. AND how about those shoes?! WOW

Martine Rose's collection, where should I begin? Interesting proportions with interesting patchwork on top of a very interesting presentation. I would probably piss myself getting off on that turntable kinda reminded me of that butter dancer (youtube it).

Casey Hayford's collection was bit sporty and a bit tailored with a touch of punk (is that the menswear equivalent of junior?). I have to look that up. The collection with its slouchy silhouette was clearly targeted for the younger fashionistos.

Christopher Shannon's collection was interesting in a way that it has some super serious pieces then followed a sweater with a cartoon face. But I'm not one to buy those "look at me" pieces so I found those subdued pieces with great detail beautiful.

The very Italian-tailoring looking collection by Richard James was handsome. It didn't appear dated and quite a surprise really.

The 20's inspired collection by YMC was fun. This is how you do a period inspired collection. Reminiscent of the time but not bordering to costume. Great job!

Jonathan Saunder's offering for Fall/Winter 2013-14 was modern and current. To say that it was colorful would be an understatement. The Ombre pieces were just beautiful. I thought that just because the collection was young and modern it didn't have to be haphazard and ponchy.

Debuting this season was Craig Green and his fence/planks headgear. Deconstruction and stripes were the main theme of the collection. The collection is not bad at all. There were some pieces that were quite great actually with the homeless realness to it.

The bright color story of the Agi & Sam collection was amazing. It was whimsical and fun. I wouldn't mind owning some of the dandy pieces especially that yellow coat with the high collar. BUT were those shoes reminiscent of the Prada fall/winter 2012-13?! Hm.

Astrid Andersen showcased another collection with the urban feel. Fur trimmed jackets were a bit over the top for my taste. The hip-hop oversized proportions was a bit meh to my opinion.

Nicole Farhi with strong tailored offerings for F/W 2013-14, the knits were the star though. The smart geometric ones were my favorite.

Margaret Howell's was simple but with a bunch of stellar pieces. Nothing over the top or innovative but great styling and wearable pieces in different shades of grey.

Day 3

Xander Zhou's collection was a great marriage of street wear and tailored pieces. The slogans were a bit passe for me but the texture on some of the outerwear were just amazing. A bit futuristic and cocoon-like but I loved it. Eventhough that some of the pieces were very reminiscent of LV collection 2 years ago.

The almost all black collection of Matthew Miller was interesting in a way of the modern cuts and the tailoring. The bad thing about an all black collection most of the little details get muted, especially the hardware on some of the pieces were just exquisite. So, Sans the "Born To Fail" pieces, I love the collection.

Shaun Samson's collection of blankets, ponchos and urban wear was interesting. For some reason or another I would have expected a very urban collection from at least one London based designer. I think everyone would agree with the saving grace were those high collared technical coats.

Christopher Raeburn's collection was modern and interesting with the pop of colors. The map blazer? I kinda love. I think eventhough that the designs were somewhat conventional and expected the presentation and styling was great and believable.

Hardy Amies as always showed the quintessential london style tailoring. The suits were handsome and I love the geometric lines and patterns.

E. Tautz would probably top my bill as my favorite collection for this day. The understated elegance and simplicity of each piece. I love the fluidity of the silhouettes eventhough slouchy it didn't feel lazy. I just love it.

J.W. Anderson's collection made the news with the clear femininity of the some of the pieces. I hate that they compared it to Tisci's collection which clearly does not look feminine. I personally didn't like the collection. I mean I know there will be a population that would love this aesthetic but to me they looked like show pieces. But that doesn't mean the whole collection was unwearable there were a few select pieces that was quite interesting. especially the "poplin" pants? why not. I mean I love a conceptual collection but to an extent.

Katie Eary's collection was an explosion of visual stimulation. The bright colors and graphics were great. Reminiscent of streetsyle of japan (which would look likely sell over there). The long jacket with the proliferated leather sleeves were just devine and  I do want one of those blue crab shirt with the chunky gold necklace. J'adore!

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

I Want More - Jesper Lund & Sebastian Lund by Emil Monty Freddie

We all had one of those days. It was not that I was having a horrible day or anything. After the first buyers meeting of the new year yesterday afternoon, It hit me like a truck. I was having the deep longing . . . for something. Something more. I know it seemed like I don't like my job as a buyer. Au contraire, I love what I do. It was just the million dollar question got asked again.

When am I moving to New York or will I ever move there for ES?

I know that I would be with the person that I love and the great opportunity that New York represents in my career in the fashion world. I still believe that every single one of us were destined for greatness and we yearn and hunger for success. We just have to sieze it. Would that time be now? Would that be this year?

Happy Hump Day my fashionistos and fashionistas! I'll post my highlight of the London Menswear fashion week sometime this week.

In today's post, we have a simple but sartorially great editorial from the 6th issue of the Fashionisto magazine. Model brothers Jesper and Sebastian Lund appeared on this project that was shot by Emil Monty Freddie. The Lund brothers were styled by Ghazal Samii with pieces by Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Yves Saint Laurent, and Gucci to name a few. 

I love those riding boots and the overall minimalist aspect of each look. 

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Lost - London, Milan, Paris Menswear Fashion Week Schedule

Don't you just hate it when you lose something and you can't remember how in the world did it happen? Apparently I lost my beloved (I've owned it for some years now) automatic Kenneth Cole watch. Okay I know it's not expensive it was only $200 when I purchased it but I have had so many compliments about it and actually one of my favorite watches that I own. Poof, gone. I don't remember getting mugged since I still have my black diamond band on and that cost more than my watch, I know. Must be one hell of a night, I guess. I can either look at it as a sign to buy a new one, maybe this Michael Kors watch that I've been eyeing for a while? Perhaps.

So, goodbye my beautiful. It has been fun.

So the calm before the storm. Since on Monday (Tomorrow) the menswear fall/winter 2013-14 begins. At least my big three (not counting NYFW, of course) We start of with London, followed by Milan and then Paris. I cannot wait to see the unveiling of Saint Laurent Paris, and my favorites, Frankie Morello, Vivienne Westwood, Givenchy of course and Burberry Prorsum to name a few. 

So without further ado here you go.
*all shows are in EST

London Menswear Fashion Week

Monday, January 7

5am - Lou Dalton
7am - TopMan Design
8am - Lee Roach
9am - CP Company
10am - Man
11am - Mr. Start
12:30pm - Meadham Kirchhoff
12:30pm - Richard Nicoll
12:30pm - Spencer Hart
1:30 pm - Hackett London
3:30 pm - Alfred Dunhill

Tuesday, January 8

3:30am - Burberry
4:30am - Nicole Farhi
5:30am - Margaret Howell
6:15am - Aitor Throup
7am - Jonathan Saunders
7:15am - YMC
8:15am - Richard James
9am - Christopher Shannon
9:30am - Martine Rose
11am - Rake
11am - Viviene Westwood Man
12pm - Oliver Spencer
1pm - Alexander Mcqueen
2pm - Sibling
3pm - James Long

Wednesday, January 9

4:15am - Christopher Raeburn
5am - J.W. Anderson
5am - Tom Ford
6am - Hardy Amies
7am - Shaun Samson
8am - E. Tautz
9am - Christopher Kane
10am - Katie Eary
10am -  Qasimi
10am - Matthew miller
12pm - Xander Zhou
1pm - Nutters of Savile Row x Peter Werth

Milan Menswear Fashion Week

Saturday, January 12

3am - Corneliani
4am - Jil Sander
5am - Ermenegildo  Zegna
6am - Ermenegildo  Zegna
7am - Costume National Homme
8:30am - Dolce & Gabbana
9:30am - Frankie Morello
10:30am - Burberry Prorsum
11am - Les Hommes
12pm - John Varvatos 
1pm - Neil Barrett
2pm - Versace

Sunday, January 13

3:30am - Bottega Veneta
4:30am - Trussardi
5:30am - Iceberg
6:30am - Salvatore Ferragamo
8am - Calvin Klein Collection
9am - Vivienne Westwood
10am - Missoni
11am - Daks 
12pm - Prada
1pm - Moncler Gamme Bleu

Monday, January 14

3:30am - Dirk Bikkembergs
4:30am - Emporio Armani
5:30am - John Richmond
6:30am - Gucci
8am - Etro
9am - Z Zegna
10am - Canali
11am - Umit Benan
12pm - Fendi 
1pm - Belstaff
2pm - Moschino

Tuesday, January 15

3:30am - Dsquared2
4:30am - Giorgio Armani
5:30am - Diesel Black Gold
6:30am - Roccobarocco
7:30am - Enrico Coveri

Paris Menswear Fashion Week

Wednesday, January 16

3:30am - Lucien Pellat Finet
5:30am - Alibellus by Titikwan
6:30am - Julien David
7:30am - Y Project by Yohan Serfaty
8:30am - Carven
9:30am - John Lawrence Sullivan
10:30am - Walter Van Beirendonck
11:30am - Valentino
12:30pm - Mugler
1:30pm - Christian Lacroix Homme
2:30pm - Raf Simons

Thursday, January 17

3am - 3.1 Philip Lim
4:30am - Kolor
5:30am - Issey Miyake Men
6:30am - Rick Owens
8:30am - Louis Vuitton
10am - Viktor & Rolf Monsieur
11am - Jean Paul Gaultier
12pm - Yohji Yamamoto
1pm - Dries Van Noten
2pm - Henrik Vibskov

Friday, January 18

4am - Junya Watanabe Man
5am - Ann Demeulemeester
6am - Maison Martin Margiela
7am - Gustavolins
8am - Junn J
9am - Kris Van Assche
10am - Cerruti
11am - Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus
12pm - Givenchy
1pm - John Galliano
2pm - Berluti

Saturday, January 19

5am - Boris Bidjan Saberi
6am - Songzio
7am - Tillman Lauterbach
9am - Dior Homme
10am - Wooyoungmi
11am - Smalto
12pm - Miharayasuhiro
1pm - Damir Doma
2pm - Hermes
3pm - Ami Alexandre Mattiussi

Sunday, January 20

4am - Melinda Gloss
5am - Lanvin
6am - Agnes B.
7am - No Editions
8am - Rynshu
9am - Bernhard Willhelm
10am - Paul Smith
11am - Qasimi
12pm - Thom Browne
2pm - Sain Laurent Paris

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Empty Chairs And Empty Tables - Anthony Vibert, Maximiliano Patane, Christopher Michaut, & Romain Sergent by Arnaldo Anaya Lucca

First and foremost, Happy New Year! Hope everybody had a great and safe New Year's Eve celebration as I did.

Now that was out of the way. I finally went to see Les Miserables yesterday with a friend. I love the musical okay that was an understatement! and I've heard various lukewarm reviews about the movie adaptation.  Overall, I liked it. Anne Hathaway was good and her rendition of "I Dream A Dream" was great and rich at her own right. The actor who played Marius (Eddie Redmayne) was amazing. So was Samantha Barks. Amanda Seyfried was a little flat for me. I didn't really liked the way she sang. She might have been great in Mama Mia (so they said) but not here. I found myself cringing when she botched her high notes. Speaking of cringing, One of my favorite number on the show was "Bring Him Home" and in all honesty Hugh Jackman was great but I didn't like the "shouting" as much in this song. But the highlight was Colm Wilkinson as the Bishop and anybody spotted Frances Ruffelle as one of the prostitues? LOVE.

In today's editorial, we have project that was shot by Arnaldo Anaya Lucca for GQ France. Anthony Vibert, Maximiliano Patane, Christopher Michaut, and Romain Sergent wore great sartorial pieces styled by Jaqueline De Cossette with an equally handsome backdrop. The story was titled, Mes Meilleurs Copain that translates My Bestfriends.