Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Paris Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012 - 2013 - Day 4

Yesterday, I was on my way out of work when I noticed this woman wearing what seemed like a pair of Louboutin spiked flats. So I slowed down my walk and actually checked it out. With closer inspection (and when she actually walked past me) no red soles. False alarm. So I figured they're just the a lot cheaper Jeffrey Campbell's.

Sometimes it surprises me how much I get excited when people seemed to splurge on themselves. Probably to justify to myself that it was okay to buy expensive and exclusive things for yourself AND to once and for all say that fashion people do live in San Francisco and not just hipsters and wanna-be hipsters.

Okay, here were my top 5 picks for the Day 4 shows.

I loved the ombre effect on the pieces. A little dark but then again, a Demeulemeester collection was a touch dark all the time. Eventhough that most looks featured black and white there were a shock of blue and red here there that I found great.

Aside from the crazy looks of pornstar/athlete/hobo, there were a few pieces that were quite nice like the animal prints and the busy printed sweaters. Some of the pants looked as if they can double as shirts.

The lush collection featured velvet and great outerwear with a smidge oversized.

Another collection featuring a slight oversized outerwear. The shapes were interesting and the color palette was a on trend. Overall the head designer for Jean Paul Gaultier womenswear showed a luxe and interesting menswear collection.

Featuring some tribal cues to their fall collection, Damir Doma veered away from what was popular this season which was military that resulted to a very rich and luxe collection. I just loved the layering of great textures from the fur, to the wool and wooden bead necklaces. A little different from what I got used to with Damir Doma but great nonetheless.

Kris Van Assche served up full military for this season's Dior Homme collection. I love the new silhouettes and camouflage/bird print on the pieces. Genius. For once, his own line and Dior didn't mimic each other! Not that I'm complaining for I adore both. Another favorite of mine for Day 4 definitely.

The luxe collection showed great tailoring and amazing leather pieces. There were reviews about the collection saying that it was a little louche but I thought that Hermes just showed a very modern fit and undeniably catering to the younger rich fashionistos on their pants and I didn't really had a problem with it personally. Of course not.
 Kenzo showed a very young and refreshing take on what seemed like vintage looks.  Great prints and colors were a bit a surprise to what seemed a very monochromatic collections for this fall/winter season.
But the simplest designs for this collection what truly shined.

Okay why was it always every season, and I mean EVERY season, there is always a "Derelic" collection (see Zoolander). The design team at MMM tried to spread awareness to recycle by incorporating plastic to some of the pieces. Towards the end when the furs came out was when I scratched my head. WTF. I mean either you commit to the message of awareness and all that was good for the earth or not.
Another favorite Paris show of mine for a number of seasons now showed a collection that slight militaristic in nature but not totally as obvious as the Dior collection. A lot of great jackets and outerwear. I absolutely love the sweater with a hint of fair isle detail on one arm. Another great piece was the poncho style bomber jacket.

Great prints and shearling pieces. I was not familiar with the brand so I did my research and found out that prints and color were their forte. Good to know since that was what this collection offered.

No pants at the Raf Simons show! I liked the idea of an oversized shirt over a regular shirt. The ombre sweater were nice. Eventhough that this collection was a little mature and less quirky than previous shows, it still has the playful feel that a Raf Simons collection was known for.

Eventhough the designs were classic it wasn't boring . . . just not enough for me to write anything about it really. Great, masculine silhouettes of winter basics.

Okay, this collection is what nightmares were made of only with better clothes. The masks just reminded me of some kind of hoodoo or voodoo or something that was practiced in backwoods of Louisiana. Okay back to the designs, amazing! Taking color and print blocking to another level. The mohair sweaters were great and how about that short shorts and thigh high boots? To me, what captured my attention were the accessories. The mask, the hats, shoes, bags, canes and necklaces were great. Now this is a show that was not boring at all.

A lot of belted looks that featured a classic high waisted pants with modern cuts with the outerwear.

Day 4: Ann Demeulmeester, Bernhard Willhelm, Cerruti, Christophe Lemaire, Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Hermes, Kenzo, Maison Martin Margiela, Mihara Yasuhiro, MSGM, Raf Simmons, Sacai,  Walter Van Beirendonck, Wooyoungmi.

1 comment:

Christina said...

Bernhard Willhelm collection looks funny and weird. Only Hermes collection captured my attention, their suit are so simple and elegant.

Christina @ Men Tuxedos