Thursday, January 19, 2012

Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012-13 - Day 3 & 4

As promised the remaining two days of Milan menswear fashion week. I think overall the collections from the Milan shows are way tamer than usual. Of course, compared to Paris the Milan shows leans toward structure and tailoring rather than Avante garde-ism. 

I can't believe it's already Thursday. The week went by fast but I'm not looking forward with the rain forecast over the weekend. I have a few social responsibilities lined-up and the rain might hinder that.

At any rate my top 5 looks from day 3 and 4 collections. 

I'm surprised that they didn't have a runway show, but I can't believe how tame this collection was compared to the previous collections that is. Granted, I love every look and the aesthetic was just my cup of tea but it was missing McQueen's magic touch.

Great luxe pieces for the downtown man. One of the trends is mixing vintage looks with a slight twist of modern touch.

Great colors and textures but still very much office appropriate.  I love that fur jacket with the red pants look. The slight 60's vibe was paired with modern day fit and tailoring.

The color story of the the collection reflects the ease that was a Daniele Alessandrini piece. The detachable fur lapels was a nice touch. I love the braided scarf then again I just might be biased since I love scarfs in general.

Dirk Bikkenbergs collection as to what I call the meat head learns fashion collection. Great pieces with a slight militaristic feel to it. I love the cashmere/felt caps and the black parka that Taylor wore. Just clean, very masculine collection.

Showing for the first time in Milan, the luxe line of diesel showcased great tailoring but a lot less "shiny" than their previous collections. I kinda liked the new look that Diesel Black Gold had this season.

Dsquared was bringing us back to school with great outerwear, especially that black leather with burnt brown pockets and lapel? Omg! So weather you were a jock, a dork, a bad boy or somewhere in between, Dsquared got you covered . . . in a quirky yet very wearable collection.

Enrico Coveri's collections always seemed cutesy and sweet. Was it because of the candy colored collection? Perhaps. Pink and back looked good together and the orange jacket was just awesome.

Etro heads to the South Americas! Feather hats and blazers, rich hues of tan and brown with great prints. I loved Etro's re-invention of the poncho. The jewel velvet jacket I liked a lot. Overall the use of prints and the color story made up a very strong collection. Bring out the nachos!

Hickey wear! the closed neck looks were a bit awkward with the high wasted pants that had a weird, quirky effect that I find interesting.

The sun kissed boys of Giorgio Armani walked down the runway in a VERY luxe collection. I love the printed fair isle sweaters. The collection echoed what have we seen this week, a lot of velvet and great leather pieces. I thought that going for a more softer look did Giorgio Armani good.

Heavy in fur and velvet, Gucci showed what Giannini do best, luxe. That tan jacket with the periwinkle / blue fur collar jacket I own but by Marc Jacobs. It LOOKS the same. Anyway.

Hipster wear! Kidding aside I liked the collection. The color story was great and the bowtied looks were great. I need that cogs lapel pin! The colors towards the end of the show was just great.

The collection showcased a very well rounded collection with a very masculine silhouette and a slight tinge of rock and roll.

Eventhough everything seemed lowkey, the prints were amazing, the color palette worked well with the prints. To me, the subtleness in design is made up for the great prints and color story.

Skater boy goes high fashion. I think the aesthetic was very young, and rich or for the young and rich. Great color palette and the prints that worked for the aesthetic.

There were a lot of pieces from this collection that worked well but a lot fell by the wayside but since their target audience were of the younger generation it sorta worked. The tailoring was there but perhaps execution of the ideas?

I absolutely adored this collection. Especially the kaftan shirts and extra long shirts makes for an interesting silhouette. It was one of my top picks from the Milan shows.

Channeling Dior Homme? I always liked their offering from the past seasons and this season just brought it up to another level. Most of the reviews did not like the voluminous coats but I found them dramatic and great and worked with the very clean, minimalistic feel that the collection possesed.

Fashion for little children learning the world of fashion.

As the new head Trussardi, why was this collection so much interesting than the other? Eventhough that I'm biased with my love of military inspired collections, I just thought that the pieces here were far more thought provoking than the costume-y feel that was this season's Trussardi.

Versace returned to their glory days of the 90's rich with luxe camouflage effects on the pieces that exuded flamboyance and richness that the house was(is) known for. Watching the show was like watching a gay pride parade on steroid with its leather looks and flamboyant pieces. I loved it and hated that I loved it at the same time.

The pop of yellow on every look made this collection interesting. Very rugged but soft at the same time.

The sophomore label with its new design head, Paul Surridge, debut collection for Z Zegna showed a different side of the label that was quite refreshing. Geared toward the younger fashionistos but still exuded great tailoring but with a touch of naiveté on the designs. There were a few of the pieces that I love.

That's it for Milan!!!  Paris started yesterday, so off we go!

Day 3 & 4: Alexander Mcqueen, Brioni, Canali, Daniele Allesandrini, Dick Bikkenbergs, Diesel Black Gold, Dsquared2, Enrico Coveri, Etro, Gazzarini, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Jonathan Saunders,  Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Nicole Farhi, Ports 1961, Roccobarroco, Umit Benan, Versace, Woolrich Woolen Mills,  Z Zegna.

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