Thursday, September 23, 2010
Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week: Men's Round Up (Part 2 of 3)
September 11, 2011
Lacoste's collection is, again, almost expected. It featured a crisp collection of leisurewear with European cuts and flavor. Hey, if ain't broken why fix it? I know its really not important but I love the awkward smiles on the models as if they were instructed to smile while walking and half of them look a little, well retarded.
Nautica's collection to my belief is becoming more slimmer and sharper with Chris Cox's direction. The collection featured activewear to preppy tailored looks.
Fashion week wont be complete without a very earth friendly line, Edun. The crocheted cardigans were pretty amazing and shows the remarkable craftsmanship of each piece.
Loden Dager's Paul Marlow and Oliver Helden showcased an edgy biker-ish collection complete with asymmetric zipper, studs and chain accents with a pop of bright colors.
Bespoken's spring/summer collection is quite refreshing because eventhough it is very young and dandy-ish it is very casual and most of the collection is extremely wearable especially in hipster world of San Francisco.
Patrik Ervell's tells a story of a young artistic man growing up a little and dressing better because of it. The collection even though minimalistic in all aspects of the collection. Maybe a little too much?
Mik Cire by Eric Kim is another collection that featured the drop crotch trouser and loose scarf. Kim presented a the look with interesting asymmetric seams, knits and lambskin motorcycle jackets.
Band of Outsiders' Scott Sternberg's rich-boy aesthetic is still in this collection minus the 70's, 80's elements. The collection began with a vacation, to a military camp, and back.
This is probably Robert Geller's most non-historical nor vampiric and most approachable collection to date. Geller's collection featured rock and roll/military looks that drew inspiration from the Berlin student movement.
September 12, 2010
Timo Weiland's show pretty much a collection for the designers, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, themselves. So basically, classic menswear for the really skinny twenty somethings of today.
Simon Spurr's collection is like American designs with European flair to it. It is sleek and modern and very relevant. Definitely one of the best shows this season and of course the leather gloves! Great soundtrack, collection and casting (even though a friend of mine begs to differ but model casting is very important and it can make or break the show.)
Antonio Azzuolo's is another fun show to watch. It's almost like Clockwork Orange meets Adventures of Tintin. I like how it is playful but yet polished. I love their spin on the letterman jacket. Definitely thinking and designing outside the box.
Y-3's Yohji Yamamoto played fluidity and texture . . . with track pants, Yamamoto's twist on a barrel pants and a midriff. His collections always, to my opinion, has tinge of darkness to it. A little bit of rock and roll and a little bit Edward Scissorhands and you get Y-3.
It is Tommy Hilfiger's 25th season and in four words, classics with a twist. This may come in the form of color blast or trimmings, nothing else.
The Marlon Gobel show is very vibrant in terms of color and texture. The collection featured classic American cuts with just in your face colors. It sort of remind me of a Ken doll collection for some reason.
September 13, 2010
Richard Chai's collection featured a military-esque but in a slouchy, carefree manner. This collection also featured sleeveless Original Penguin shirts as a part of his collaboration with the brand.
Zero + Maria Cornejo's show is very interesting to say the least. It was not amazing but more like a, "huh! who would have thought," then a shrug. The two tone onesies gave the illusion that well, they are not onesies, genius.
Diesel Black Gold NY continued the western theme on the men's collection. The collection was vintaged out by a washing techniques, no bueno.
Rad by Rad Hourani is another conceptualize show. The collection was presented where a male and female model walk down the runway wearing almost the same thing. the leather and multi level blazers are pretty darn cool.
Michael Bastian's collections has always been unbiased American Prep wear and this season's show is no difference. There are some subdued Military inspired pieces and scuba gear but I have to say, I was lost watching this show because of the lack of cohesion. It has everything and anything but at least they all look somewhat great.
The Perry Ellis signature collection is an explosion of cream pastel colored tailored pieces. I like that this season they have more of the slim fit pieces giving the collection a younger more contemporary American wear.