Tuesday, January 15, 2013

London Collections: Men Highlights

This is going to be a straight forward post since it's been on my to be posted asap pile for days now. I apologize. I've been busy with work load and stay tuned with my highlights for the Milan shows and Paris after that.

So here are the collections that made an impression on me . . . for good reasons or not.

Day 1

Mr. Start: the collection, looked luxe and pristine. Great tailoring. Great pieces but again, nothing to write home about.

Meadham Kirchoff's collection made me cringe a little bit. The somewhat luxe collection but not quite then surrounded by trash bags. Great, not so much. Especially those sandals and sports socks.

Hackett London once again showcased the quintessential English style tailoring. Beautiful and poignant but somewhat dated. I love the pop of colors here and there. For some reason the aquamarine and pumpkin pieces caught my attention.

The quite minimalist collection with a simple but great color story was quite refreshing. Kudos to Richard Nicoll and his team. I thought that the gradual changes throughout the presentation was genius.  The all gray pieces were by far my favorites.

A La Disposition's quirky collection featured victorian pieces meets the future . . . so steampunk? Not quite. There were some really thought provoking pieces in the collection. But I hated the shoes!

Lee Roach's collection featured a great minimalist designs. I actually loved this collection, was it because it reminds me of a certain designer? Perhaps but the offerings were great and the strap detail on almost every jacket/top piece was quite nice.

Another "British and proud" brand, Lou Dalton showcased great tailoring and heritage. I meant when you looked at the collection you can tell where the inspiration came from.

TopMan's monochromatic designs were great. I'm absolutely in love with that look that openend the show. Everything looked polished and luxe and perfect for a ski trip. I also loved the short maroon puffer jacket. There were quite a few in this collection that I really liked. Another job well done.


Rake's offering for the Fall/Winter 2013-14  consisted of great tailored pieces but nothing to really write home about.  How about those leather turtle neck things? Interesting.

Sibling's fun, tongue-in-cheek collection was cute. I mean I've always wanted an oversized fluffly knitt hat and gloves with a matching "Please Kill Me" sweater. The oversized proportions of the pieces were clearly meant to be fun . . . doesn't it. I just love the juxtaposition of the hard bodied models with the fluff.

James Long's collection of earth toned pieces was interesting. Usually I would gravitate to these since I love a more toned down pieces to my wardrobe. But I found this very muddled. The combination of different fabrics was masterful but I found the collection very sad. Not because it sucks or anything but the emotion that I got while watching the show was of that.

Christopher Kane's collection featured animal and old school monsters. Interesting. I have mixed feelings with this collection but I'll let it sit around for a while because I usually like his collections.

The utilitarian collection of Oliver Spencer consisted of great fall colors and horizontal lines. It does remind me of a current collection I've seen. (can you guess who?). Regardless the collection was handsome and very wearable indeed.

The Alexander McQueen show was great. I found it interesting that it moved from its Milan showing to where the deceased genius hailed from. Sure the collection was a lot less conceptual than what I'm accustomed from McQueen (since changed after his death) but the gangster/edwardian aesthetic for this cycle's offering was interesting.  It might have lost some form of edge but I thought the collection was still relevant. AND how about those shoes?! WOW

Martine Rose's collection, where should I begin? Interesting proportions with interesting patchwork on top of a very interesting presentation. I would probably piss myself getting off on that turntable kinda reminded me of that butter dancer (youtube it).

Casey Hayford's collection was bit sporty and a bit tailored with a touch of punk (is that the menswear equivalent of junior?). I have to look that up. The collection with its slouchy silhouette was clearly targeted for the younger fashionistos.

Christopher Shannon's collection was interesting in a way that it has some super serious pieces then followed a sweater with a cartoon face. But I'm not one to buy those "look at me" pieces so I found those subdued pieces with great detail beautiful.

The very Italian-tailoring looking collection by Richard James was handsome. It didn't appear dated and quite a surprise really.

The 20's inspired collection by YMC was fun. This is how you do a period inspired collection. Reminiscent of the time but not bordering to costume. Great job!

Jonathan Saunder's offering for Fall/Winter 2013-14 was modern and current. To say that it was colorful would be an understatement. The Ombre pieces were just beautiful. I thought that just because the collection was young and modern it didn't have to be haphazard and ponchy.

Debuting this season was Craig Green and his fence/planks headgear. Deconstruction and stripes were the main theme of the collection. The collection is not bad at all. There were some pieces that were quite great actually with the homeless realness to it.

The bright color story of the Agi & Sam collection was amazing. It was whimsical and fun. I wouldn't mind owning some of the dandy pieces especially that yellow coat with the high collar. BUT were those shoes reminiscent of the Prada fall/winter 2012-13?! Hm.

Astrid Andersen showcased another collection with the urban feel. Fur trimmed jackets were a bit over the top for my taste. The hip-hop oversized proportions was a bit meh to my opinion.

Nicole Farhi with strong tailored offerings for F/W 2013-14, the knits were the star though. The smart geometric ones were my favorite.

Margaret Howell's was simple but with a bunch of stellar pieces. Nothing over the top or innovative but great styling and wearable pieces in different shades of grey.

Day 3

Xander Zhou's collection was a great marriage of street wear and tailored pieces. The slogans were a bit passe for me but the texture on some of the outerwear were just amazing. A bit futuristic and cocoon-like but I loved it. Eventhough that some of the pieces were very reminiscent of LV collection 2 years ago.

The almost all black collection of Matthew Miller was interesting in a way of the modern cuts and the tailoring. The bad thing about an all black collection most of the little details get muted, especially the hardware on some of the pieces were just exquisite. So, Sans the "Born To Fail" pieces, I love the collection.

Shaun Samson's collection of blankets, ponchos and urban wear was interesting. For some reason or another I would have expected a very urban collection from at least one London based designer. I think everyone would agree with the saving grace were those high collared technical coats.

Christopher Raeburn's collection was modern and interesting with the pop of colors. The map blazer? I kinda love. I think eventhough that the designs were somewhat conventional and expected the presentation and styling was great and believable.

Hardy Amies as always showed the quintessential london style tailoring. The suits were handsome and I love the geometric lines and patterns.

E. Tautz would probably top my bill as my favorite collection for this day. The understated elegance and simplicity of each piece. I love the fluidity of the silhouettes eventhough slouchy it didn't feel lazy. I just love it.

J.W. Anderson's collection made the news with the clear femininity of the some of the pieces. I hate that they compared it to Tisci's collection which clearly does not look feminine. I personally didn't like the collection. I mean I know there will be a population that would love this aesthetic but to me they looked like show pieces. But that doesn't mean the whole collection was unwearable there were a few select pieces that was quite interesting. especially the "poplin" pants? why not. I mean I love a conceptual collection but to an extent.

Katie Eary's collection was an explosion of visual stimulation. The bright colors and graphics were great. Reminiscent of streetsyle of japan (which would look likely sell over there). The long jacket with the proliferated leather sleeves were just devine and  I do want one of those blue crab shirt with the chunky gold necklace. J'adore!

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